A child walks along the pier in Isla Holbox
Isla Holbox, Mexico is located on the Caribbean coast, north of the Yucatan peninsula. The island is 56 square kilometres, with a population of almost 1,200. The locals believe that the island is shaped like a whale shark, which is one of the most protected animals in Mexico, and they gather in the waters off the coast to feed. It is a fishing island, not as well-frequented by tourists as nearby Isla Mujeres.
Dolphins swimming towards a ferry
Holbox is a three-hour bus ride from Cancun City, give or take a few unpredictble stops, on mostly dirt roads through jungle and tiny towns, where locals board busses full of backpackers to sell ham-and-cheese buns for 10 pesos each. The 10 a.m bus ride ends at around 1:15 p.m in the town of Chiquila, which is home to a beer store, corner store and a tiny booth selling fresh fruit and tourist trinkets. The Nine Hermanos company owns and operates the ferry that runs back and forth five times a day from Holbox to the mainland. Tourists pay 60 pesos each, while locals are only charged 30. If you miss the last of five ferry sailings, or if the Hermanos are nowhere to be found, there are fishermen waiting to take you across in their boats for an inflated price, usually between 300 to 500 pesos per boat load.
The 25-minute boat ride to Holbox is typically smooth, and often passengers are treated to dolphin sightings. As the ferry approaches the island, it is obvious wilderness covers it. Reeds and trees sway in marshy waters close to the shore. Hundreds of birds are seen floating on the breeze, and eventually you begin to notice the vibrant pink feathers of the flamingos that call Holbox home. Iguana tracks create intricate designs in the sand, and the reptiles sunbathe close to the locals who are selling tacos and chips to visitors coming from the mainland.
A stage in the center of the island
Once on land, there are “taxis” ready to take you to one of the few hostels or hotels on the island. The taxis are actually golf carts, or ATVs if you have no luggage, as there are no real roads on the island and it is not equipped for cars. The centre of town is about two square blocks, with a basketball court, small stage and playground in the centre. Small children ride bikes around the square, while young adults play basketball nearby. From the stage, it is one block to the beach on one
side of the island, and four blocks back to the ferry dock on the other. At 2:45 p.m, the receptionist at hostel El Encanto is out for lunch, but the hostel provides an area for guests to leave their luggage.
Most restaurants on the island serve seafood. Los Peleones has a rooftop dining room that overlooks the entire centre of town, with the beach peeking through the palm trees in the background. Their signature dish is an incredible lobster fettuccine, with the lobster caught fresh that day. At 6 p.m, the setting sun bathes the whole island in a warm light.
The sun sets behind fishing boats
A flamboyance of flamingos
In the evenings, locals gather to play soccer on the white sand beach while visitors sip fruity drinks in the hammocks that hang outside hostels and outdoor bars. The sun sets behind the pier that extends into the brilliant blue water. Fishing boats litter the beach, some overturned and some still floating in the water. The nightlife here is not as lively as nearby Cancun, however music can be heard playing from various bars late into the night.
Whale shark season is June to September, and tours are available to take you an hour out to sea to experience swimming with these massive and gentle creatures. Starting at 8 a.m every morning, fishermen will take groups out on their fishing boats at a cost of 1,500-3,000 pesos per person, not including a 30-peso fee for access to the protected waters. The ride out to the groups of sharks is incredible. Manta-rays, dolphins and many other sea creatures can be seen along the way. It is clear when you have reached your destination. The filter-feeding whale sharks can grow to 41 feet, and while they are considered the biggest species of fish in the world, they are docile and are not bothered by tourists who want to get up close. A diver will
take two people at a time to swim beside the spotted fish. Around 5 p.m., at the end of the whale shark tour, the guide will feed you fresh ceviche made right on the boat, and take you to the other side of the island where hundreds of bright pink flamingos reside in the turquoise Caribbean waters.
This serene, almost unknown island is paradise to tourists and locals alike. The beauty, serenity and brilliance of this small island is the perfect vacation spot for those looking for a tropical paradise without the bustle of other popular tourist areas.
